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Psychedelicropcircle wrote:I was up north last weekend applecross to glencoe village 125 miles used 9 litres on the button GT186.
burnside wrote:Psychedelicropcircle wrote:I was up north last weekend applecross to glencoe village 125 miles used 9 litres on the button GT186.
What's your setup with the GT186 as in pipe, carb and jetting?
Psychedelicropcircle wrote:burnside wrote:Psychedelicropcircle wrote:I was up north last weekend applecross to glencoe village 125 miles used 9 litres on the button GT186.
What's your setup with the GT186 as in pipe, carb and jetting?
Mb clubman 28mm phbh av266 x13 125 Main jet. Using a cyclone on it as well which I think makes it a little less fuel efficient.
Psychedelicropcircle wrote:burnside wrote:Psychedelicropcircle wrote:I was up north last weekend applecross to glencoe village 125 miles used 9 litres on the button GT186.
What's your setup with the GT186 as in pipe, carb and jetting?
Mb clubman 28mm phbh av266 x13 125 Main jet. Using a cyclone on it as well which I think makes it a little less fuel efficient.
Solid Air wrote:I have the small-block GT Bilko and use it all year round, including for the Euro/C2C etc. In about 10k miles I haven't had any reed issues and they are doubled up.
I would advise checking that the casting allows the reeds to open fully though (I needed a manifold packer) and whether the manifold touches the frame (might need to use eccentric cones and/or fettle the manifold).
isn’t that the main problem, there are no stops?ULC Soulagent wrote:I think the reeds closer to the piston needed too be doubled up
And optimum opening is around 7-9mm on the petal stops
Bilko wrote:Solid Air wrote:I have the small-block GT Bilko and use it all year round, including for the Euro/C2C etc. In about 10k miles I haven't had any reed issues and they are doubled up.
I would advise checking that the casting allows the reeds to open fully though (I needed a manifold packer) and whether the manifold touches the frame (might need to use eccentric cones and/or fettle the manifold).
When doubling up the reeds, what side do you double or do you double both?
Also. when you say check reeds fully open, how much is fully open?
Thanks
Scooterdude wrote:isn’t that the main problem, there are no stops?ULC Soulagent wrote:I think the reeds closer to the piston needed too be doubled up
And optimum opening is around 7-9mm on the petal stops
Scooterdude wrote:isn’t that the main problem, there are no stops?ULC Soulagent wrote:I think the reeds closer to the piston needed too be doubled up
And optimum opening is around 7-9mm on the petal stops
Solid Air wrote:Bilko wrote:Solid Air wrote:I have the small-block GT Bilko and use it all year round, including for the Euro/C2C etc. In about 10k miles I haven't had any reed issues and they are doubled up.
I would advise checking that the casting allows the reeds to open fully though (I needed a manifold packer) and whether the manifold touches the frame (might need to use eccentric cones and/or fettle the manifold).
When doubling up the reeds, what side do you double or do you double both?
Also. when you say check reeds fully open, how much is fully open?
Thanks
I doubled up on both sides. The reeds fouled on the inlet casting so used a packer, 3mm I think, to lift them away from the metal that they touched when opening... hope that makes sense
Scooterdude wrote:isn’t that the main problem, there are no stops?ULC Soulagent wrote:I think the reeds closer to the piston needed too be doubled up
And optimum opening is around 7-9mm on the petal stops
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