Thinking of adding front shocks on S3 Li150 (advice please)

[Lord-Spanner]

Hi fellow scooterists,

I'm sure this has been asked millions of times but can't find it on the forum, so as a complete newbbbbe to the vast world of Lambrettas go easy on me please .

I'm thinking of adding some front shocks to my S3 Li150 as well as better springs still with drum brakes, what would be the best way to do this ?? I've had a look and notice you can get top fork mounts that clamp on and bottom bolt on mounts, as a bloke who likes to do things proper (don't mind spending dollar) I'm thinking of either welding on the top mounts to my original forks or getting a new set with mounts already fitted/welded on.(have seen the billet alloy ones but not keen)

Now if I used the old fork weld on bracket method would I be able to fit a new set of bottom fork links with the shock mount integrated into the link and still be able to fit the standard drum brake etc?

And if I go with new forks (presuming the bar through the frame is the same (thickness and length) as my standard S3 Li one) will all the old drum brakes fit with new bottom links etc


ARRGGGHHHHH so many different options available but not sure what fits what etc

Hopefully someone can help me here, apologies if this is as clear as mud

Thanks folks LS

[Storkfoot]

I am just rebuilding a set of GP150 forks and am doing what I have done several times before. I have stripped the forks completely, had damper mounts welded on both the forks themselves and the fork links. I then sent the links away to be re plated. When I get them back, I shall rebuild the forks, replacing some of the fork internals as I do.

In my opinion, this is the safest and probably cheapest way to do this. The forks will need repainting mind.

I did once try the bottom attachments that wrap around the links but I had one snap in two on me (they are made of cheese so not surprising) climbing Tan Hill. I have not tried the bolt on attachments for the forks themselves so can’t comment.

[Lord-Spanner]

I am just rebuilding a set of GP150 forks and am doing what I have done several times before. I have stripped the forks completely, had damper mounts welded on both the forks themselves and the fork links. I then sent the links away to be re plated. When I get them back, I shall rebuild the forks, replacing some of the fork internals as I do.

In my opinion, this is the safest and probably cheapest way to do this. The forks will need repainting mind.

I did once try the bottom attachments that wrap around the links but I had one snap in two on me (they are made of cheese so not surprising) climbing Tan Hill. I have not tried the bolt on attachments for the forks themselves so can’t comment.

Thanks for the quick reply, Sounds good, time wise would it be easier to just replace the forks and links rather than the faff of sending them away doing the jobs and sending back etc etc?? and if your not sure of what kind of job they will do (like me)(I'm a fussy old git)

Agreed....much safer which is what I'm thinking with new forks and links rather than putting my life at risk with someone else's doggy welding

Also agree on this one, the bottom bits don't look the best tbf, top bolt on billet mounts look ok but for the extra 30-40 quid I'd rather replace the forks and be very confident or have the old ones welded with the top mounts and keep my fingers crossed

Looking good

[burnside]

Personally I would just upgrade your fork springs to the progressive type and then see how that feels before going down the road of front dampers, that's all I did on my Eibar rally hack and the ride is great, and at £16.99 a pair a cheap upgrade http://www.lambretta.co.uk/shop/fork-springs-ultimate-progressive-p-3657.html

[Lord-Spanner]

Personally I would just upgrade your fork springs to the progressive type and then see how that feels before going down the road of front dampers, that's all I did on my Eibar rally hack and the ride is great, and at £16.99 a pair a cheap upgrade http://www.lambretta.co.uk/shop/fork-springs-ultimate-progressive-p-3657.html

Sound like a plan too , was just thinking about adding dampers while its in bits being inspected for knackered bits and replacing the busted worn out/bits

[GExS]

Personally I would just upgrade your fork springs to the progressive type and then see how that feels before going down the road of front dampers, that's all I did on my Eibar rally hack and the ride is great, and at £16.99 a pair a cheap upgrade http://www.lambretta.co.uk/shop/fork-springs-ultimate-progressive-p-3657.html

Sound like a plan too , was just thinking about adding dampers while its in bits being inspected for knackered bits and replacing the busted worn out/bits

I’ve known the plastic sleeves inside the fork links can wear down. New runners and decent progressive make all the difference. I don’t think dampers make much of an improvement that I’ve found.

[Andyf]

Finding a decent replacement pair of the right forks isn't always easy, go with the welded lugs and new links. Just my opinion - the MB replacement links are absolutely first rate.

[missing lynx]

The thing to bear in mind is whether you get your forks welded or buy new/replacement ones they will need painting also you will need a good quality set of fork compressors and fork spanners. If as you say you don't mind shelling out it may be worth finding a reputable dealer in your area to do the work for you. If you do tackle it yourself make sure you replace the link bushes and the fork bearings while you're at it

[Lord-Spanner]

The thing to bear in mind is whether you get your forks welded or buy new/replacement ones they will need painting also you will need a good quality set of fork compressors and fork spanners. If as you say you don't mind shelling out it may be worth finding a reputable dealer in your area to do the work for you. If you do tackle it yourself make sure you replace the link bushes and the fork bearings while you're at it

Don't mind about painting as it's covered in 1960's patina and will stay like that for the rough and ready look, only changing the bits that are worn out really, still have the lump and box to do That is something I need to start buying is special tools, apart from the welding I would do it all myself (might even tackle that but I'm no welder), at least I know it would be done correctly with no hidden bodges anywhere

[Lord-Spanner]

Finding a decent replacement pair of the right forks isn't always easy, go with the welded lugs and new links. Just my opinion - the MB replacement links are absolutely first rate.

Very true but would possibly look at new ones if they were not stupid money, welded lugs and new links sound good to me, MB replacement links??? do you have a link Andy? was looking at the casa ones for about 100 notes.............

[Lord-Spanner]

I’ve known the plastic sleeves inside the fork links can wear down. New runners and decent progressive make all the difference. I don’t think dampers make much of an improvement that I’ve found.

All internal/external fork parts are probably shot so will be replaced as a matter of course, might get some top mounts welded on while the forks are in bits so they are there if need be, can always cut them off if I don't need them

[citydaz]

When i renovated my Li125 series 3 (1966) I got some top brackets welded on and fitted some MB dampers. Also got a front internal disc hub fitted. Just rattled canned the welded brkts and it looks good with the patina effect. Also got upgraded internal springs. The handling and braking was transformational.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Despite what some may say, a well set up front end is very much worth the effort. Rear suspension is important & influential upon the front end too. However, front dampers with good springs (TV 175 dual rate were the best I ever used) are essential to my mind. If ever anybody were to try a well sorted race Lambretta with sticky tyres & then hopped onto another without front dampers, they would be horrified! Just try amachinewith a shot rer damper & you'll never question the need for dampers front or back.

The things are fitted to control rebound, so without them, get used to poor braking & pogo-ing around bends.

If I were you, I'd buy another set of bare forks with dampers brackets fitted, source some genuine 175 - 200 fork links & buy an internal disc brake, unless you like the aesthetics of an exposed disc. They work well if set up correctly. An alternative is the TV175 S2 drum brake if you can find one. Naturally, all cable brakes work better reverse pull....

Make your choice, buy the bits & assemble it all yourself with help on here or via Sticky's manual & have the satisfaction of enhancing your machine yourself.

[Lord-Spanner]

When i renovated my Li125 series 3 (1966) I got some top brackets welded on and fitted some MB dampers. Also got a front internal disc hub fitted. Just rattled canned the welded brkts and it looks good with the patina effect. Also got upgraded internal springs. The handling and braking was transformational.

My ride has plenty of patina thats for sure A disc set up would be nice but that might stretch the budget a bit tooooooo much (not that I have one for this, it takes what it takes to get it road worthy) but guess if I ever found one for a reasonable cost then I would probably go for it

[Lord-Spanner]

Despite what some may say, a well set up front end is very much worth the effort. Rear suspension is important & influential upon the front end too. However, front dampers with good springs (TV 175 dual rate were the best I ever used) are essential to my mind. If ever anybody were to try a well sorted race Lambretta with sticky tyres & then hopped onto another without front dampers, they would be horrified! Just try a machine with a shot rear damper & you'll never question the need for dampers front or back.

The things are fitted to control rebound, so without them, get used to poor braking & pogo-ing around bends.

If I were you, I'd buy another set of bare forks with dampers brackets fitted, source some genuine 175 - 200 fork links & buy an internal disc brake, unless you like the aesthetics of an exposed disc. They work well if set up correctly. An alternative is the TV175 S2 drum brake if you can find one. Naturally, all cable brakes work better reverse pull....

Make your choice, buy the bits & assemble it all yourself with help on here or via Sticky's manual & have the satisfaction of enhancing your machine yourself.

Even going up and down our drive on her I've noticed it has more front end dive that duncan goodhew, so new springs will be on the ever increasing list of parts to buy I would imagine a well set up front/rear set up will improve it 100 % not that I would be racing around the streets on it

I'm sticking with the standard engine and box for the time being so will stick to the drum front end, but maybe if I ever do anything with the lump and box then will look towards a front disc set up.

One question though with new forks with damper brackets fitted are all the series 3 forks interchangeable ? Ie....would a set of 175-200 fork links fit onto a set of S3 forks with brackets fitted? and then at a later date possibly disc set up, would they fit on S3 forks with 175-200 links?

This is a very big can of worms for me making sure everything fits to what I'm buying

Cheers for your help

[coaster]

One question though with new forks with damper brackets fitted are all the series 3 forks interchangeable ? Ie....would a set of 175-200 fork links fit onto a set of S3 forks with brackets fitted? and then at a later date possibly disc set up, would they fit on S3 forks with 175-200 links?

This is a very big can of worms for me making sure everything fits to what I'm buying

Cheers for your help

All sreies 3 forks are interchangable, series 1 and 2 as well I think but GP forks have a shorter stem. Personally I cant understand why you would want to buy a new set of forks. The weld on brackets are readily available and very cheap and are a piece of piss to weld on. I bought a cheap MIG and did mine with no training. Just cleaned some of the paint off, measured and clamped the brackets in place with mole grips and a few tacks later the job was a good'n as they say. I could also have taken it to a welder and have had it welded professionally for a few quid. Touch up with a rattle can and it will blend in after a few weeks of riding

Also, an internal disc brake will fit Li forks but drum and disc links are different so upgrading later will mean changing the links too. I used the pressed steel lower brackets that go behind the hub nuts on mine and they were absolutely fine for the 2 or 3 thousand miles I covered before changing to an internal disc and MB disc links.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Reiterating my own advice, you would be best placed to make decisions as well as have an understanding of the work entailed (& thus your own capability) if you bought Sticky's manual.......where's my commission?

Coaster is correct in that there are only two nominal frame fork tube lengths on S1 -S3 (OKeh. S4 too ) but there are actually variances in the fork stem length just to confuse. Personally, I managed unwittingly to mismatch some Spanish forks with a late SX that I thought would have been made in Spain (I still do think that) & the headset clamp is not quite doing it's job as there is some 'fresh air' above the stem. For peace of mind, I made an extension to the fork stem so that the clamp had full purchase.

Further to any comments about springs, often they may be considered too soft, but the transformation in the addition of dampers can often mean they become effective, negating any desire to fit harder springs, dependent upon rider style.

Anybody that has just so much as moved a modern sports bike can hardly help but notice how much the forks float up & down, yet they can hustle around a race track nearly as good as a Lambretta That is because the springs are there to absorb undulations in the surface, the dampers to control the springs in getting into a state of 'bouncing'

[Storkfoot]

Personally, I wouldn’t rush to buy new forks or any fork related parts. Experience has told me that if original parts can be reconstituted, that is the way to go.

So far, I have spent the price of a pint to have the fork damper pints welded on (the mounts were a similar price), £25 to get the damper mounts welded to the links by a lad who has been doing it for years) and the links being chromed will be about £30. I know the forks are straight (checked in a jig) and I have checked that my links are in plane after they were welded.

I don’t need to lash cash out on MB or Casa links as I know my originals will be better than them, probably, and I don’t need to buy new forks as I am very confident that my original Italian ones will be better made than any new ones.

My point is that you could spend a few hundred pounds and have no better forks than me.

[Lord-Spanner]

Reiterating my own advice, you would be best placed to make decisions as well as have an understanding of the work entailed (& thus your own capability) if you bought Sticky's manual.......where's my commission?

Coaster is correct in that there are only two nominal frame fork tube lengths on S1 -S3 (OKeh. S4 too ) but there are actually variances in the fork stem length just to confuse. Personally, I managed unwittingly to mismatch some Spanish forks with a late SX that I thought would have been made in Spain (I still do think that) & the headset clamp is not quite doing it's job as there is some 'fresh air' above the stem. For peace of mind, I made an extension to the fork stem so that the clamp had full purchase.

Further to any comments about springs, often they may be considered too soft, but the transformation in the addition of dampers can often mean they become effective, negating any desire to fit harder springs, dependent upon rider style.

Anybody that has just so much as moved a modern sports bike can hardly help but notice how much the forks float up & down, yet they can hustle around a race track nearly as good as a Lambretta That is because the springs are there to absorb undulations in the surface, the dampers to control the springs in getting into a state of 'bouncing'

I have plenty of mechanical self taught experience (still can't read or understand calipers or a feeler gauges apart from old skool mini tappets or plug gaps so that not a problem really, and yes I do have a stickys book, oh yes commision is in the post

That's what I want to avoid is wasting money on buying things that don't fit other parts.......

Yes I can see that with the soft springs and dampers, the dampers would slow the compression and rebound of the springs down, thus stopping the bouncing.

[Lord-Spanner]

Personally, I wouldn’t rush to buy new forks or any fork related parts. Experience has told me that if original parts can be reconstituted, that is the way to go.

So far, I have spent the price of a pint to have the fork damper pints welded on (the mounts were a similar price), £25 to get the damper mounts welded to the links by a lad who has been doing it for years) and the links being chromed will be about £30. I know the forks are straight (checked in a jig) and I have checked that my links are in plane after they were welded.

I don’t need to lash cash out on MB or Casa links as I know my originals will be better than them, probably, and I don’t need to buy new forks as I am very confident that my original Italian ones will be better made than any new ones.

My point is that you could spend a few hundred pounds and have no better forks than me.

Totally with you on all points, think I will get some for brackets for my forks and see how that goes first (when there off the scoot) as like you say the originals will be better that the re-manufactured stuff, though I think I would be inclined to buy new fork links me thinks as that way I know everything would be in the correct place to accept the shocks