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Knowledge wrote:Hi Marty.
I have recently fitted one of these to my mate’s scooter.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223652877350
It presents two USB sockets and a digital read out of the voltage. When you switch the scooter on and bring the battery to life, it reads about 12v, but once the engine is running, it shows a healthy 14.4v.
If you can find a good place to mount it (top of a leg shield tool box), then it will tell you all you need to know about your system.
I’ve now bought one for myself.
PS. I don’t think you get a meaningful reading if you connect across the two yellow wires of a DC stator. You need to go through the Wassell and have a bit of load on the red side.
Toddy wrote:I had that issue coming back from a rally late at Night , lights drained battery on DC set up leving me unable to see the road Mine was the Wassell unit , changed it and been good since
coaster wrote:Reading the advice above, some of it might be a bit misleading The regulator works by shorting excess voltage to earth and needs a load attached to give a meaningful reading (same with the AC regulators). A fully charged battery will show around 13.5 volts which should rise to 14.2 or thereabouts when the engine is revved over around 3-4k RPM. The voltage straight out of the stator on the 2 yellows (disconnected) will rise to 20-30 volts AC maybe more depending on revs.
It sounds like the battery isn't charging, I have found both my installations prone to high resistances in spade connectors which look fine but on close inspection have slightly corroded. The connections on alarm type batteries seem very prone to this, I now use bike batteries with screw terminals. Also bare in mind that if you ride with the lights on, you wont put much (if any) charge into the battery if riding round town, especially if using a high wattage headlamp bulb, Martins suggestion of a volt gauge is a good one so you can keep an eye on the charging is a good one.
Fast n Furious wrote:The open circuit output voltage from some Indian stator / flywheel combinations can get as high as 150 volts. This is 'open circuit' AC voltage of course. So, make sure your mutlimeter is set to AC200V range when measuring the stator output. Rectify this voltage to DC and you've got over 200V. This a big ask for any regulator to control this down to the circa 14VDC charging level.
Fortunately, this voltage drops dramatically as soon as there is some electrical load placed upon it such as, charging a battery or running with the main lights on. The more electrical load you apply, the more the stator's AC voltage will drop and so the 'shunt type' regulator has less work to do.
Always make sure that the connections from the regulator to the battery are the best you can make and maintain. As Coaster pointed out- a high resistance here will unload the regulator. In this situation,the regulator now has to deal with clamping a lot of high incoming voltage. This makes the regulator run very hot when touring for hours on end, especially on hot summer days. Consequently, the regulator will burn out, leading to potential battery damage and blown bulbs. This is a common situation with a lot of motorcycles. it's not just a Lammy quirk.
Running with the headlamps on all the time is the kindest way to treat the regulator. It's also the kindest way to prevent your battery from overcharging and it's a safer way to ride!
Meds wrote:Are you getting anywhere with the fault
ULC Soulagent wrote:Fast n Furious wrote:
Food for thought FnF, my battery is of the spade connector so I’ll check everything over
Fast n Furious wrote:ULC Soulagent wrote:Fast n Furious wrote:
Food for thought FnF, my battery is of the spade connector so I’ll check everything over
Do you mean it's a "Gell type" battery like those used in alarm panels?
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