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MickYork wrote:It's not only a clamp meter. I'm sure it'll be as accurate as a £15 analogue. Just make sure you don't confuse the ac and dc settings.
MickYork wrote:It's not only a clamp meter. I'm sure it'll be as accurate as a £15 analogue. Just make sure you don't confuse the ac and dc settings.
Marty ULC wrote:Did you get it sorted Shane?
I've got a similar problem with the series1, think it's either a stator fault or the flywheel needs re magnetising.
ULC Soulagent wrote:......I changed stator and wassel over too a Scootronics system, better but still needs over 3000rpm before I see my volt meter climb into the 13/14 volts
coaster wrote:ULC Soulagent wrote:......I changed stator and wassel over too a Scootronics system, better but still needs over 3000rpm before I see my volt meter climb into the 13/14 volts
That sounds about right, you wont put much if anything into the battery around town as even the most trumpeted 6 pole DC stators barely put out enough power to charge a battery as well as powering a decent headlamp. If you havent already done so you should change the rear for an LED and fit either an LED headlamp bulb or HID conversion. Ive done this on both of mine and it works very well
Fast n Furious wrote:HID's do give a really good light but the downside is that they really dont like water.
Forget the chinese BA20d LED's cos they don't have the right Hi/Lo beam pattern.
A company called Classiccarleds do a Ba20d LED which has an integral beam pattern adjustement to get the dipped beam offset correct towards the kerb, which is set by a small allen screw. Quite useful for those that do continental touring me thinks.
Not tried one myself yet, but some local mates running old vintage cars swear by them. They are however not suitable for AC scoots. Only battery DC.
A bit pricey at £28 +vat a pop... but if does the job......
Fast n Furious wrote:What model of headlamp did you fit it to Shane and what was the dipped beam offset like?
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