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Fast n Furious wrote:Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Fast n Furious wrote:The make and tyre rating also has an effect on the required pressure.
Tyres with stiffer side walls can generally use a little less pressure.
Continuous high speed riding will generate a lot of heat further raising the pressure. which can be a good thing in the right circumstances.
The question is arbitrary really because it all depends on the scope of use.
I limit my continuous high speed road riding to no more than about 20 miles a thrash, simply because the rear tyre gets to hand burning temperatures and needs to cool down before I dare go any further. ( I need a cig break anyway)
It's a slighly different situation on the race track because you accept the consequences that come with track racing. A bit more diligence is needed for the road IMO.
It's a very overlooked subject though. I'm constantly nudging my fellow club members about their obvious underinflated tyres. It's usually the first thing I notice as they pull into the pub carpark every week.
One of them recently ended up in hospital after a 50MPH front blowout left him sprawled across the A64. He was however riding a Vethspa so this may have had some bearing on the matter?
I have nothing significant to add to this long debate, but was wondering if you re-check the pressures when you make your enforced 'hand hot' stops?
For the record, are you running tubeless?
Just for completeness, when the BSSO approved tubeless rims for racing (which to me seems a no-brainer in not adopting) there were a number of top racers that resisted, choosing to continue with tubed tyres with the addition of a lining between tyre & tube made from cut up inner tubes. They still got punctures & I was not surprised. Rubber creeps & exasperates heat build up IMO.
I did once check the hot tyre pressures but it was years ago and I no longer recall what the increase was.
On my own machines I use the AF 3" tubeless rim on the rear with a 10/120/90 section tyre. (Modified engine casings, rear mudguard and rear of frame are needed). This tyre has only 3mm difference in diameter compared to the 12/120/70 setup I have on the front. The scoot therefore sits up 1" higher. Cornering is great fun, with zero exhaust groundings.
For giggles.... I used to park the bike up with a couple of bricks under the stand feet with the front wheel up against the pub wall. Start it up, drop it into 4th and rev it out and watch the cold rear tyre inrease in diameter by about 30mm
This is also a tetchy way of determining how good your rear wheel balance is, albeit a bit scarey when you find out that it's crap and tries jumping off the stand.
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