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Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:
However, I would consider making up a stepped washer (top hat) that has a spigot to fit the hole of the ring but a nat's shorter (spigot length) to clamp the ring to the head. Then it can be fitted onto one of the cylinder studs in direct contact with the head.
I reason that the temperature there will be not far off the under plug location & more reliable/responsive than using a fin....
dickie wrote:Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:
However, I would consider making up a stepped washer (top hat) that has a spigot to fit the hole of the ring but a nat's shorter (spigot length) to clamp the ring to the head. Then it can be fitted onto one of the cylinder studs in direct contact with the head.
I reason that the temperature there will be not far off the under plug location & more reliable/responsive than using a fin....
Yes, I like that. As I don't have easy access to a machine shop I'll do it by using a pair or washers to form the top.that though. Thanks.
steve t wrote:Remember to leave a bit of free play in your cable to allow for expansion (if you haven’t already done it) I found out the hard way on my remote master cylinder first time down road at least pads where bedded in when I got home
dickie wrote:I'm trying to decide how/where to fit my CHT probe. It won't reasonably fit under the plug on my avanti head and would be wrecked after a few plug chops too. So i'm thinking about on top of plug with some tube to secure it, where i reckon it will give the fastest response but will read low
2018-01-08_08-07-10 by richardhenderson1968
or fin next to plug. Where i reckon it will read low and respond slow:
2018-01-08_08-07-54 by richardhenderson1968
or the back of the head. probably slowest and lowest
2018-01-08_08-07-31 by richardhenderson1968
I'd prefer to use the top of the plug, but just want to check it's ok before I start fitting cables etc and the engine becomes a pain to remove. Also, what sort of temps should i expect from a cool/optimum engine?
dickie wrote:steve t wrote:Remember to leave a bit of free play in your cable to allow for expansion (if you haven’t already done it) I found out the hard way on my remote master cylinder first time down road at least pads where bedded in when I got home
Errr, I havent. Well there's a couple of mm free play but that's just to stop the pads rubbing accidentally. Do you reckon that's enough?
What expands,? I'm a bit puzzled how that could happen. Never had to do that on a hydraulic brake on any bike I've had before. It would be a pain to correct while out as it's hidden behind horncast.
shane BBoys wrote:
Dickie.
what was the outcome of the probe fitment?
Cheers Shane.
steve t wrote:Fluid getting warm maybe expansion was wrong word to use old cars on single line master cylinder used to be Same people taking all free play out off operating plunger then blast down road for a few miles then brake stuck on its a fine line between enuff free play and a decent feeling brake lever that's why I used piano wire in stead of Bowden cable ( no stretch ) hope this helps only speaking from my past experience 3 steps forward and 2 back and all that
coaster wrote:With regard to the CHT sensor, I gave up with under plug fitting as they made plug removal very difficult and the plug can work loose (mine came right out) so now I have dremelled a small area as close to the plug as possible whilst still allowing a plug socket to fit. I then drilled and tapped a small hole and fitted the probe into the 2BA size crimp that came with my Gamatech speedo. The readings are pretty consistent with what I got under the plug at around 170 - 190 c.
Well done on the finnage btw
Simon_T wrote:nice looking scoot dude
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