My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[grandpa]

Hi Hillclimber,
The other three wires are for lights and not needed to start engine..Assuming it is similar to a GP stator the green wire goes to one side of the ign coil.The other wire on the coil is soldered to a tag on stator coil.These tags can become loose so check for bad contact. Where the green wire is soldered a wire goes to the condenser and on to points.A magnet passing over the coil induces a voltage.The spring contact must not be earthed.With your engine on the bench and the plug out spin the flywheel and peer in through flywheel window I think you should see a tiny spark at points or hold green close to engine while spinning flywheel.If you have a spark time up engine with fag paper It usually works well and should be ok for standard engine.
good luck,
Grandpa

[Dimitrios_231]

Er, I'm confused by this too. Check the resistance across the points with everything disconnected.

They should show open circuit or infinity when open. There will be a second or so of settling while the condenser charges, but no longer.

I agree with this,
but ,
in our case the contact breakers (points) are not disconnected,so the continuity test is on all the time (both with opened/closed points),
at least,this what I have understood

[coaster]

.......spin the flywheel and peer in through flywheel window I think you should see a tiny spark at points

I'm fairly sure that the spark you sometimes see across the points is caused by back emf from the HT coil so if the coil isn't connected I don't THINK you will see any sparking (arching) at the points contacts......college was an awful long time ago though

[dickie]

The spark you sometimes see is caused by the fact that current is already flowing and will continue to do so unless it can find some other path.

This is the reason there is a condenser.

Often, replacing the condenser will cure this and thereby reduce wear on your points caused by spark erosion.

[911hillclimber]

Just tested the original stator with the replacement flywheel; there is a small spark off the green lead to earth (engine case).

Also, with the dvm on 200 ohms range, the resistance on the green = 0.7 to engine case, the resistance on the brown is 0.3 to engine case

Resistance from one end of the engine to the other is 0.1
Probe to probe = 0
Tried the bulb test again, bright all 360 degrees of the crank..

not sure where that leaves me now!

I think I'll have a scrape at the sheet metalwork....or clean my new carb that has just turned up

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Hi Graham.
In that replacement carb make sure it's fitted with a red tipped float needle.
Modern petrol rots the old ones and they won't seal; then the carb floods.

[911hillclimber]

Thanks Chris, I bought a new rebuild kit for the 18mm a little while ago, I'll check the needle I bought with it.
Old 18mm one was black and 'groovy' on the tip.

Going to strip it this afternoon as a respite from bloody light bulbs..

[grandpa]

Hi hillclimber
As you are getting a spark from green wire it would indicate the points are working and the primary coil on the stator is ok.Also, your scoot is stripped down so why not bolt the ht coil on the engine somehow connect the green wire to ht coil the other side of ht coil has an earth connector so connect this to engine rest a plug on engine casing and see if you get a spark
In effect the ht coil amplifies the spark you proved exists .I am assuming your magnets are OK.
Grandpa

[911hillclimber]

Sounds good that you think there is life in this thing!

The pull on the flywheel when placing it on the crank is good and strong, and at the '5 o'clock' position it is quite relaxed, just where Sticky says is the best spot to get the wheel on over the pesky woodruff key.

I have the original coil off the TV, 1964 vintage, so I will assume it is live and give it a try.
Time to play running out due to Wedding anniversary!

Stripped my new carb down, what a cracker it is.
I will replace all the jets esp as the atomiser is not a '-2' TV spec and the others a not to spec, but close. with the 18mm jets I'll have a stash of jets to hand.

One rear running board all welded and with a little more tapping will be done ready to strip and prep.
Never realised the side flanges along the length of the Series 3 were actually curved/ribbed below the rebate for the running strips. This make for a challenge to get the dents out.

Just pulled some great mig welds, not normal for me.

Progress today.
Just might avoid an electronic 12v kit yet, but I do have a permission to extend the rapidly dwindling £2000 budget.

[coaster]

Another message from Kev over on Scooterotica.

"Colin, I noticed that he is using an "instrument lamp" to do the test. If this is a very low wattage there will be no discernible difference in the brightness. The higher the wattage the more noticable the difference, so try a headlight lamp."

[911hillclimber]

Never crossed my mind. Indeed it is a speedo light bulb, just happened to be in a holder in my 'electrical tin'
I will get a headlamp bulb and try it again.

What a laugh that would be if all this is about the bulb size.

Indeed, Stickys book uses a headlamp bulb from a scooter.

Surely not...

Have to wait until tonight as must go out now.

Please, surely not.

[Dimitrios_231]

Have to wait until tonight

Ι have a good feeling

[911hillclimber]

I couldn't wait that long, so back out to the den and The Patient.

Found a mega headlamp bulb in my car's spare bulb touring kit, one of the untouchable ones.

Connected it all up yet again, bulb on the +ve side as per Sticky method.

IT WORKS!

Yes, a define dimming, and razor trigger point. you can actually hear the points open.

I am embarrassed by this saga, bet some of you are laughing at me, but s!d it, all done.

Moved the stator around to get 18 deg +/- 1 deg or so using my old school protractor that is so close to being the right diameter.
Checked the points yet again, snug 0.4, loose 0.3mm, drop of oil on the new felt pad, tightened it all up and made a flywheel holding tool to torque the nut to 50 lbft.

And then the best bit, putting the original spun cover and wire clip in place.

Thus the game is over.
A 1,000,000 thanks to Kev and Colin for spotting my mistake, but for all of you for every input too, and as ever, I learn something every day.

I will run (I hope) the TV this way and if I still love it after the first rides I may well still put electronic/12V in place, but can 'spend' the £180 towards the huge powder paint bill looming.

[Dimitrios_231]

Give out but don't give up
Both Kev and Colin,deserve one pint of beer each (for a start )

[Adam_Winstone]

Well done all... especially Hillclimber for sticking with it!

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Well done and good luck mate.

(BTW: still check that your scooter insurance includes recovery !!)

[coaster]

......................A 1,000,000 thanks to Kev and Colin for spotting my mistake............

I can't take any credit for this, just acting as the messenger boy, Kev (firekpd) is the one that read of your plight but as he isn't an LCGB member took the trouble to ask me via the Scooterotica site to pass his advice on. Kev doesn't post very often but when he does it is usually to deliver some pretty good advice...he can have my pint too

I nearly posted earlier that I had never had any success with the light bulb method myself but thinking about it, I would have done exactly as you did i.e. used an instrument lamp. I had several 'Lucas type' liberated from an old Austin Westminster I found abandoned (dumped). Glad that a happy outcome was found

Colin

[911hillclimber]

After a bit of a rest for a few days doing a few other things, back to the TV.

I'm building an elevated assembly table on wheels before the painted chassis parts arrive back.

To finalise the dimensions I need a little help please in the form of what is the distance between the Series 3 stand (extended down in parked position) and the centre of the rear wheel?

This is to be my intended table width plus a bit.

Hope someone has a scooter and tape measure handy?

Thanks,
Graham.

[HxPaul]

Hi Graham.On my series 3 the distance is approximately 29" or 74cm.

Paul

[911hillclimber]

Excellent, thank you for doing that and posting for me.
I've made the table to 1000mm wide so the front forks will overhang the table, thus the stand and rear tyre will sit well on the table itself.

Thanks again,
Graham.