SIP Speedo and Wassell - again

[rossclark]

I've been wiring up my GP.

All lights and horn work off the battery.

I'm running a Wassell conversion, AF Ducati flywheel and original stator rewired to feed the Wassell.

My SIP speedo is the earlier version. Originally I was getting speed readings while ticking over on the stand which stopped if I disconnected the temp sensor. I've read all the threads and fitted a resistor plug and cap which seems to have cured the silly readings and bad behaviour.

The red for the power box is into my DC junction box (wired all round) and the black to a good earth.

I've spliced the brown into one of the yellows from the stator but got no Rev counter reading.

All the other functions seem OK.

Any of the electrical gurus any ideas where I go from here?

[foremanbob]

Ross,
I would say that you have done everything correctly... That is the same setup as I have, and works perfectly.

recheck your electrical connections... check youve got what you think you have with a multimeter...

FYI, as an aside I wouldnt run a resistor plug and cap.... will diminish the quality of your spark... I run only a resistor plug with no issues...

[Eden]

Check under the speedo where all the wires enter the sheethin. Have a look to see if all the black wires are still connected.

[Nelly]

Ditto, seems ok what you have done. Multimeter time Ross.
Check all your connections, especially if you used any of them scotch block connections to splice into a cable. They are notorious for not cutting through all the cable insulation for smaller wires.
Regarding spark plug, I also only run a resistor plug and non resistor cap. All works well.
I'm just about to do the captains casatronic conversion on mine, once this bloody Uni work is done

[rossclark]

Cheers guys, something to work on at least.

I used one of the Wago type connectors for the splice.

[Nelly]

The lever type?
I swear by these things now. That's the type I used for my splice into the yellow.

[rossclark]

Yes three way lever type - tried it with all possible configure too just in case...

Yellow Yellow Brown
Yellow Brown Yellow

And so on ...

I'm converted to how simple they are for this sort of thing and might even do away with the junction box as I got a couple of 5 ways in the pack.

[Nelly]

There's no difference of configuration, it's a common connection across the 3 cables, basically the lever pushes a bar across the wires to make a common joint.
I used them in my headset when I did the halogen conversion.
On a day to day basis, these mixed with the push in versions make wiring joint boxes and control wiring so much easier.
As for your SIP, no idea without it being in front of me, sorry.

[Paulnobodyimportant]

Just about to wire up for a SIP Speedo on my Wassell DC conversion, with battery. Now becuase I have a lot of stuff going on in my headset, I will be using the extension wire to get the power box to the rear of my scoooter. The suggestion so far says to connect the live wire direct to the battery. But wont that mean that there is power to the speedo whilst the scooter is sat in the garage or is this OK. Plus from reading the forums, I take it that i connect the RPM brown wire direct to the yellow wires from the stator, before it enters the wassell unit.

If connecting direct to the battery is bad news, then I can always run a wire back up the frame and connect to the lighting power feed. This means that when the ignition is off, there is no power to the speedo.

Thanks

Paul

[foremanbob]

But wont that mean that there is power to the speedo whilst the scooter is sat in the garage or is this OK. Plus from reading the forums, I take it that i connect the RPM brown wire direct to the yellow wires from the stator, before it enters the wassell unit.

If connecting direct to the battery is bad news, then I can always run a wire back up the frame and connect to the lighting power feed. This means that when the ignition is off, there is no power to the speedo.

Thanks

Paul

If you connect to the battery the battery will constantly power the Speedo, and your battery wont last long... need a switched supply....

And yes you are correct about the brown...

[Paulnobodyimportant]

Cheers Bob, I'll connect live to lighting circuit so that it's switched.

[rossclark]

I did sort this eventually - it was a poor connection to one of the yellows - it didn't catch correctly in the connector.

I also fitted an isolator to switch the battery off when not in use.

[bjhart]

I have the same problem... no rev indication on the clock, everything else works ok. I have to check the connections at the weekend, just to be clear on the BGM DC stator there is a thick yellow and a black / yellow (I think) does it matter which one is connected ? Also is there any way to check the unit is not faulty?

[mickey c]

I've not used a BGM stator but I thought they should all have 2 yellows. Either way, either yellow should work.

Also and sorry for stating the obvious but if my memory is not completely addled, there are different tachometer settings in the set up stage, Have you got the right 1? i didn't 1st time.

[bjhart]

Thanks Mickey c but it is only the rev counter function that is not working...the battery won't test that it needs an a.c. wave...

I have been thinking about it and plan to do the following at the weekend;
1. Check I have a.c. coming from the selected stator wire if not use the other one.
2. If that doesn't work I think I could power up the Speedo from the battery and use an a.c. supply from another scooter purely for the rev counter pulse....presumably for this 6v would be ok???
3. If that doesn't work ensure I have continuity along the rev counter wire right back to the Speedo.

Feel free to confirm my approach is ok, or add any other suggestions
Barry

[bjhart]

Ok, so I can confirm I do have an AC supply from both yellow wires and if I disconnect the wires and take the feed directly from the stator the rev counter works. I have discovered that I have an electrical issue that if I connect both stator wires to both of the wassell yellow wires it cuts the engine. I have checked continuity through both stator yellows and it is ok. Anyone else come across this issue? I don't understand why the yellow wires impact the ignition circuit?

[Nelly]

Sorry, I'm a little lost as to how you are connecting the yellows.
A quick recap from my previous posts on Wassel setup.
To check the output of the AC voltage from the stator you need to set your multimeter to AC and test across the two yellows, you should get an output of anything up to 30 volts AC.
These 2 yellows connect to the 2 yellows of the Wassel regulator, there's no difference as to which goes to which as it's AC voltage.
You take a cable from 1 of the yellows to the speedo for the rev counter feed.
The main power for the battery and the rest of the bike comes from the red and black from the Wassel, this should give a constant output of around 13.5V DC across the red and black.
Can't help any further without having the bike in front of me, sorry.

[bjhart]

When I checked the wiring both yellows from the stator were connected to one of the yellows from the wassell, which I know is incorrect, the other yellow from the wassell wasn't connected to anything, no idea how long it has been like that, when I try to correct the wiring it cuts the engine... are there any tests I can do to check the wassell unit is ok?

[Nelly]

I suppose all you could do is feed in an AC supply into the Wassell and see if it kicks out a steady DC voltage. Sounds like the wiring of the bike needs some looking over.