^... can't say fairer than that.
Respectfully,
Adam
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a.lo wrote:the main fault with the brake method (which i have used many times) is when you have a leaky oil seal to replace.
steveg wrote:My question would be, why not use a holding tool? Easy to make, easy to use and works well.
Not one I carry in my toolbox and used the brake method many more times than the holding tool due to side of the road problems. But in the garage it's always the holding tool.
Knowledge wrote:^ wise words Steve
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:mr mugello wrote:Torquing up the rear hub by using the brake . Is it ok to do it this method ok if you don't have the holder to hand.
Even if I had access to a rear hub holder, I cannot think why I would choose to use it. I can’t recall ever seeing one in use, either & I think it’s fair to say that ‘I’ve been around’
To my way of thinking, the only components under any load when utilising the brake as the torque resistance are the shoes themselves. So, if they cannot hold the hub whilst torque is applied, then that would ring alarm bells to me!
I certainly wouldn’t remove a wheel to fit a tool in its place as the time involved, lack of stability & general inconvenience far outweigh any possible advantage.
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Adam_Winstone wrote:^... agree 100% that there are times when this is the only method available and I too have used it over and over again, although involving my wife normally complicates matters. On the bench the holding tool works a treat, especially when pulling the layshaft home for shimming the gearbox, and now in most cases (for the sake of 4 nuts) will fit the holding tool, rather than applying the brake, if the bike is at home and the holder is available. I consider this to be 'best practice'.
It seems like most of us have used the rear brake method, and continue to do so, but it is not my first choice for the reasons that I've outlined.
Adam
Just to draw my own line under the debate & merits of the two principal methods of hub tightening.
As some clarification, I am advocating the use of using the rear brake as a means of holding the hub for torquing of the hub nut when the lay-shaft has been ‘set’ correctly relevant to the gearbox shimming procedure (0.003 – 0.011”)
Under such circumstances , it is my belief that any ‘lateral side loading’ is inconsequential/unlikely to affect the procedure of tightening the hub nut as there will be compliance laterally (as stated above) as well as the inevitable compliance of the friction surfaces themselves allowing for ‘creep’ if necessary.
If in doubt, then the torquing (using the rear brake) should adopt an ‘on-off ‘ procedure to ensure that lateral loading cannot be excessive, if such a condition could actually occur. I doubt that it can & I’m only paying lip service to it.
Unfortunately, I accept that this (civilised) debate can only ever be conclusive were there back to back tests in laboratory conditions. In the absence of such a luxury, the two main camps should agree to disagree.
Knowledge wrote:What a pompous post WT1. Red ink indeed.
So you are happy for this forum to be a two way street, as long as all the traffic is going your way.
I disagree about the use of standing on the brake to lock the back wheel for tightening the hub nut, and I particularly disagree with your justification. The wide Lambretta stand is one of the most stable fitted to any two wheeler, and I believe that standing on the brake causes distortion by stressing the hub in a non-uniform way. No I don't have a lab to prove it, but I can avoid the issue by using a hub holding tool.
I may not have time to respond to you inevitable reply, as I am busy building a scooter in the workshop where I don't have a keyboard.
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